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Irises For The Waterside |
 The word iris comes from the Greek meaning 'rainbow'
and this gives a good indication of the extremely wide
colour range that there is in the family.
There are many species and varieties which are ideal for
naturalising by the waterside, and some of these like to have
their roots right in the water, while others prefer to grow in
boggy soil at the side of streams and pools. Some of them
thrive in the sun, while others prefer shady conditions.
Properly chosen, it is possible to have some iris plants flower-
ing by the waterside for a very lengthy period. Some of these
species have come to us from the swamps of America and
Asia, whilst others have been discovered as a result of defo-
restation in various parts of the world.
We must, naturally, consider the type of iris we intend to
grow, for some moisture-lovers like to have their crowns above
water level, others are happy when quite submerged. There
are also those which like to have a position where their roots
can work their way into moisture found lower down in the
soil.
Where there is the convenience and desire, it is possible
without any great difficulty, to build a ledge around a pond,
whether the latter is artificial or otherwise. Second-hand
bricks are suitable for this purpose, placing them about twelve
inches deeper than the normal water level, and making them
anything from twelve inches wide. On such a ledge it is
possible to place soil to a depth suitable for the particular type
of irises being grown. In this way, conditions can be provided
for those irises which prefer to be right under the water, and
those which like to have only their roots in moisture.
Some consideration must be given to the type of soil we
provide for using on the built-up ledges, or whenever it is
necessary to introduce fresh soil into the bog garden or marshy
ground being used for aquatic irises.
There is no doubt that it is always a good plan to use a
mixture rich in organic matter. A suitable mixture would be
three parts good loam, on the heavy side, one.part each leaf
mould and broken peat moss, and one five-inch pot full of
bone meal to-each bushel of soil. The bone meal is a fine,
slow-acting fertiliser, which gives better colour to leaves and
flowers. If available, old rotted cow manure may be added to
increase the lasting good value of the compost.
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